Di Hu
"I'm
a second year graduate student in Anthropology
studying how ethnic identities changed through
the Inca and colonial periods in Peru, and how
such changes relate to social mobilization. In
short, I'm studying the history of ethnic identity
in Peru. Research
locations: Lima, Jauja, Ayacucho (Huamanga), Vilcashuaman,
and Jajamarca.
Imanaya
Kachkanki! (Quechua for ´Hello!
How are you?´) I'm traveling
alone for the first time in Peru, and although it
comes with much uncertainty, the sense of adventure
and making friends makes up for the uncertainty. My
first week in Peru, I navigated Lima bureaucracy
with my trusty letter of introduction with its own
gold stamp. If any one wants
to do research in the archives of Peru, be sure
to bring original copies of a letter of introduction
from your advisor, preferably with many stamps,
as the Peruvians love stamps. A
good stamp, and if possible with ribbons,
will take you places. Reading centuries
old documents in very difficult
to read handwriting, not to mention awkward writing
styles and terrible light, makes reading Habermas
a breeze. Also,
take advantage of the
general willingness of Peruvian scholars to meet
with students interested in Peruvian history. Send
them an email, and more often than not,
you will have a stimulating conversation with
them.
In
the second week, I was in Jauja in the mountains
of Peru. It´s very cold
there, so if visiting, bring warm clothing. I
climbed a late intermediate
period (AD 1100-1450) fortress settlement called
Tunanmarca, built by the Wankas ethnic group. Climbing
up was much easier than climbing
down, or more aptly, falling down. Be
sure to always follow a path
when climbing down a mountain in Peru, and don't
think that the perpendicular path is the fastest. I
then took a 9 hour bus ride on a very
narrow and unpaved mountain road from Jauja to
Ayacucho. It was only about
10 feet wide in some areas, barely enough room
for one bus to pass. This
route is not for the squeamish, but the views
are spectacular.
In
Ayacucho, I visited various museums and talked
to archaeologists to get a better sense of Ayacucho
history. I recommend
visiting sites with archaeologists
as guides. It´s free
and unlike most tours, the information
is largely accurate. Next weekend, I'm
traveling to a little visited
village called Jajamarca, or Cacamarca as it
was known in the colonial era. There
is an important colonial era "obraje" or textile
workshop in Jajamarca. Obrajes were one
of the main institutions that integrated
native andeans into the cash economy, and played
a major role in identity transformation in the
colonial era, when old identities fell into
disuse while new ones formed.
While
doing research in Peru, be curious and never
let fear stop you from exploring
villages off the tourist trail. Often,
you can make friends who will
accompany you to wherever you want to go."
|
